What to eat in Yakushima: local specialties and where to find them
The dishes Yakushima is known for, and places to eat that fit naturally between the sights. Budget guidance included.
Contents
Yakushima food means the island’s fish, flying fish and mackerel above all, plus ingredients particular to the island. Kubiore saba, mackerel bled by breaking the neck as it is landed, reaches a freshness you can only get here. Flying fish is the island specialty, usually served deep-fried whole.
What to eat in Yakushima
| Dish | What it is and where to try it |
|---|---|
| Kubiore saba | Mackerel bled by breaking the neck right after landing. Being able to eat it raw is unique to Yakushima |
| Flying fish | The Yakushima specialty. Deep-fried whole, as tsukeage fish cake, and as sashimi |
| Yakushima water | Soft water of a quality among the best in Japan, also used to make shochu |
| Tankan | The island citrus. In season February–March, and intensely sweet |
| Yaku deer & Yaku boar | Game from endemic subspecies of the island. Few restaurants serve it |
| Mitake shochu | A Yakushima sweet potato shochu, hard to obtain even on the island |
| Packed lunches | On a hiking day you order a bento from your lodging. With a pre-dawn start, you must arrange it the day before |
Where to eat
Miyanoura and Anbo are the island’s two centers, and the restaurants are concentrated in those two places. Even so there are not many, and they close around 8 PM. On a hiking day you leave at 4 AM, so you order a bento from your lodging, and that must be arranged the day before. There are a few supermarkets and convenience stores on the island, but none open 24 hours.
What meals cost
Lunch ¥1,000–2,000; a night with two meals runs ¥12,000–25,000. A bento costs ¥800–1,200. Being an island, Yakushima is slightly more expensive, though not dramatically so.
Frequently asked questions
What do I eat on a hiking day?
You order a bento from your lodging. With a 4 AM departure, arrange it the day before without fail. You also need trail food such as rice balls, nuts and chocolate, and at least 2 litres of water.
What is kubiore saba?
Mackerel bled by breaking the neck immediately after landing. Mackerel normally spoils fast and is difficult to eat raw, but this treatment makes sashimi possible. It is done only in Yakushima and a few other places.
Let us handle the arrangements
If you have dietary needs, whether allergies, vegetarian or halal, we confirm them with each restaurant in Japanese when we book. Having foods you cannot eat is no reason to narrow your trip.
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Planning essentials for Yakushima
Beyond the main topic of this article, here is a summary of everything you need to plan a trip to Yakushima, with links to the full article on each subject.
A one-day route at a glance
4:00 To the Arakawa trailhead → 5:30 Walking the trolley line → 8:00 Ohkabu trail entrance → 10:00 Jomon Sugi → 11:00 Start back down → 16:00 Back at the Arakawa trailhead → 18:00 Hot spring and dinner
With half a day, do Yakusugi Land or a coastal drive taking in Senpiro Falls and Okonotaki Falls. Jomon Sugi needs a full day, and Shiratani Unsuikyo more than half a day.
Extending beyond day one
Jomon Sugi is a 10-hour round-trip hike, so if you are not confident in your fitness we recommend Shiratani Unsuikyo, the mossy forest said to have inspired Princess Mononoke, at about a 4-hour round trip. Yakusugi Land is easier still, with maintained trails offering courses from 30 minutes to two and a half hours. There is also Okonotaki Falls (88 m), Senpiro Falls, and the western forest road, where you can meet Yakushima macaques and deer. Sea turtle nesting tours run from May to July. Yakushima needs at least two nights, ideally three. For the full timed itinerary, see the Yakushima itinerary.
Seasons and temperatures
| Season | Typical temperatures | Highlights and cautions |
|---|---|---|
| Spring (Mar–May) | 15–24°C | A good season for hiking. Sea turtle nesting begins in May |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | 23–30°C | Hot and humid, with typhoon risk. The mountains are cool but the lowlands are muggy |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | 17–27°C | September brings typhoons. October and November are the best hiking months |
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | 10–17°C | Mild at sea level, but snow settles near the summits. Miyanouradake becomes a winter mountain |
April–May and October–November are the best hiking months. June and July are the rainy season with the heaviest rainfall; August and September bring typhoons. In winter the lowlands are mild but the mountains turn to snow. In any case Yakushima is wet year-round, so come prepared to go out in the rain. Clothing guidance and seasonal events are covered in the best time to visit Yakushima.
Budget at a glance
For 3 days and 2 nights, budget ¥60,000–90,000 per person (roughly CA$600–900): ¥18,000 for the round trip from Kagoshima, ¥30,000 for two nights, ¥15,000 for a guide, and ¥12,000 for the hiking bus and a rental car. Transport to Kagoshima comes on top of that.
Hotel rates by class and the cuts that actually save money are detailed in the Yakushima budget guide.
Getting there
Yakushima is reached from Kagoshima by jetfoil (2 hours 30 minutes), ferry (4 hours), or plane (40 minutes). Sailings and flights are cancelled in bad weather, so always leave slack in your schedule.
| Route | Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Kagoshima → Yakushima (jetfoil) | About 2 hours 30 minutes | Toppy / Rocket, around ¥9,000 one way. Three to five sailings a day |
| Kagoshima → Yakushima (ferry) | About 4 hours | Ferry Yakushima 2, around ¥5,500 one way. One sailing a day |
| Kagoshima Airport → Yakushima Airport | About 40 minutes | By air, around ¥15,000 one way |
| Itami → Yakushima | About 1 hour 30 minutes | Direct flights (seasonal) |
| Miyanoura Port → Anbo | About 30 minutes | Local bus, around ¥800 |
Local transport and the passes worth buying are covered in getting to Yakushima.
Good to know before you go
- The Jomon Sugi route: 10 hours, 22 km, 700 m of elevation gain. Dangerous without a regular exercise habit
- Descending before sunset: Non-negotiable. There are no lights in the mountains, and running late means getting lost
- Rising streams: Heavy rain raises streams fast, and crossings can become impassable
- Hypothermia: Wet cotton clothing is the biggest risk. Wear quick-dry fabrics
- No mobile signal: The mountains are almost entirely out of range. Tell your lodging and guide your plan
- Yaku macaques and deer: They stand in the road. Do not feed them, and drive carefully
- Toilets in the mountains: Portable toilets are recommended, and booths are provided
Etiquette and emergency contacts are covered in what to know before visiting Yakushima.
More frequently asked questions about Yakushima
Can anyone hike to Jomon Sugi?
It is a 10-hour round trip, 22 km, with 700 m of elevation gain. It is tough unless you exercise regularly. We strongly recommend going with a guide. If your fitness is a concern, consider Shiratani Unsuikyo instead, at about 4 hours round trip.
Where is the Princess Mononoke forest?
The “moss-covered forest” at Shiratani Unsuikyo is where director Hayao Miyazaki is said to have done his research. It is about a 4-hour round trip, far easier than Jomon Sugi. The moss looks better in the rain.
Is it no good in the rain?
The forests of Yakushima are more beautiful in the rain. The moss soaks up water and shines, and the streams run full. Rather than waiting for sunshine, the mindset that suits this island is going to see the forest in the rain.
How many days do I need?
At least two nights, ideally three. Weather can cancel a hike, so you need a spare day. With one night, you risk seeing nothing at all because of rain.
Do I need a guide?
For Jomon Sugi, we strongly recommend one. It is a 10-hour day requiring judgment about sudden weather changes, route-finding, and pacing your energy. A guide also explains the vegetation and history, which changes the quality of the experience considerably.
How much does a guide cost?
A full-day Jomon Sugi guide runs ¥12,000–18,000 per person, and it works out cheaper in a group. We can also arrange English-speaking guides.
Boat or plane?
The jetfoil is cheaper (around ¥9,000 one way) at 2 hours 30 minutes. The plane takes 40 minutes but costs around ¥15,000. Boats are more prone to cancellation in high seas, though, and flights have the better operating record.
How likely is a cancellation?
Cancellations happen in typhoon season (August–September) and during strong winter winds. The jetfoil in particular is sensitive to wave height. Always build one spare day around a Yakushima visit.
I am not confident about my fitness. Can I still go?
Jomon Sugi is demanding, but Shiratani Unsuikyo (4 hours round trip), Yakusugi Land (30 minutes to two and a half hours), and a coastal drive can all be enjoyed at any fitness level. Jomon Sugi is not the only reason to come to Yakushima.
What if rain cancels the hike?
Trails close when a heavy rain warning is issued. In that case the plan shifts to Yakusugi Land, the coastal waterfalls, the hot springs, and the Environmental and Cultural Village Center. With a spare day you can try again the next morning.
Plan this trip with IACE
Everything in this article is knowledge we use in real bookings every day. Tell us your dates, group size and interests, and we will turn it directly into your own itinerary.
